A Style Glossary

Everything you need to know about fabrics, cuts, and trends!

Angora: (see also, Mohair) A type of wool yarn or knit fabric made from the very soft hair of Angora goats or Angora rabbits. Used most often in sweaters.

Argyle: A pattern of knitting featuring varicolored diamond shapes on a solid background. Popularized by early golf wear. Perhaps Scottish in origin. A preppy look. Used most often in sweaters and socks.

Bohemian: (a.k.a. “Boho”) A revival of the bohemian period in art and literature in the late 19th Century, which emulated the nomadic lifestyles of the Roma (or Gypsies, then predominantly in the Bohemian region of the modern Czech Republic). Typified by long, flowing dresses, flat sandals or boots, peasant-like tops, and a casual, layered look. Often including folk or ethnic patterns. Generally an unstructured style.

Chiffon: A very thin, very light fabric made from silk or rayon. Usually transparent or see-through and not silky (but neither rough) in texture. Used most often in skirt or dress overlays, veils, or scarves.

Corset: Originally a piece of plain cotton underwear with whale or steel boning (a.k.a. “stays,” basically hard, slightly outward-curving and flat sticks) sewn in and pulled tight by laces across the entire torso. Meant to pull the waist in significantly and support the breasts. The original girdle and push-up bra. Now worn over clothing or on its own, or as a part of an evening gown, and of more decorative appearance, often made of satin and featuring pretty ribbons as laces. Significantly less restrictive than the original and constructed of either structured fabric or with flexible plastic boning.

Cowl neck: An excess of fabric around either the circumference or front of a neckline meant to create a draped look. Used most often in silky or knit tops.

Crinoline: (see Hoop skirt) A type of slip/petticoat often made of starched tulle or layers of nylon in order to give skirts fullness. Popular during the 1950s with poodle skirts and women’s calf-length dresses. Can also be used under evening gowns and/or wedding dresses.

Empire waist: (often pronounced in the French; “ahm-peer”) From the Empress Josephine of France (Napoleon’s wife). Waist cut just below the bustline, with fabric below generally floating away from the body. Popular in dresses during the Napoleonic and Regency eras. Seeing a modern resurgence in tops, especially camisoles.

Hobo bag: A generally large, unstructured bag with a half-circle or curving shape and a short, over-the-shoulder strap. Considered part of the Bohemian trend.

Hoop skirt: (see Crinoline) A type of petticoat made of wire or plastic hoops of varying widths, creating a bell or cone shape. Used in the mid-19th century (especially during the Civil War era) to create a very wide skirt silhouette. Rarely used in modern dress, except with certain wedding dresses. Very difficult to sit in.

Kitten heel: A very short but very narrow (think stiletto-width) heel used on dressier shoes and sandals (though rarely boots). Popular with office wear and/or taller women. Considered more comfortable than higher heels.

Mohair: (see also Angora) A type of wool yarn or knit fabric made from the very soft hair of the Angora goat. Fabric is often fuzzy from loose-spun yarn. Used most often in sweaters.

Paisley: A swirling, abstract, often colorful pattern (generally featuring curved tear-drop shapes). Originally used on fine wool, but now printed on cottons and fine knits as well. Named after the Scottish town where it was created in the 19th century. Gained popularity during the late Regency and Victorian periods as woolen shawls, but the pattern is now used on skirts and knit shirts as well.

Pencil skirt: A skirt that is form-fitting around the waist and hips and either has straight lines, or curves in slightly at the knees. Generally knee-length or slightly above. Usually made of more structured fabric like twill, canvas, denim, wool, or leather.

Regency: An style of clothing popular during the Regency period in England (the late 18th and early 19th centuries). Inspired by Greek and Classical clothing, Regency dresses featured tight, Empire-waisted tops, often with very short puffed or cap sleeves and low-cut necklines, with long flowing skirts. Hairstyles often modeled the loose, curly, and low hairstyles of Classical statuary. Shawls and/or scarves were often worn during the day to modestly cover the decolletage, along with structured straw, felt, or starched canvas bonnets. Has seen a recent revival with the Empire waist.

Shawl collar: A folded-over, round-edged collar and/or lapel (meaning, without traditional pointed lapel). Used most often on jackets and blazers.

Stiletto: A type of high heel that is very narrow, often rounded. Generally not considered “stiletto” unless the heel is 2 inches or higher. Generally used on pumps, but also dressy sandals and boots. A classic look.

Suede: Any type of leather with a soft, napped finish. Difficult to clean, generally not easy to water-proof. Used most often in jackets, skirts, shoes, and handbags.

Tulip skirt: A skirt made in sections that are wider at the bottom than at the top. Creates a close-fitting upper part that flares out at the bottom, the fabric often ruffling or waving vertically. Generally made of a more structured fabric like twill, canvas, denim, or wool. Generally knee-length.

Tulle: A fine, soft netting of silk, rayon, or nylon. Often starched for use in ballet tutus, or skirt crinolines. The softer, unstarched kind is most often used in decorative edging, wedding veils, and in many layers as the skirts formal gowns (such as wedding gowns).